New Ways to Stand Tall

The shift to the high wedge and the chunky platform is a welcome relief
for women tired of teetering on spindly stilettos. But there's a hitch:
The shoes can be less stable than spike heels –– and can cause more
injuries.
http://online.wsj.com/article/SB114323955765907867.html?mod=2_1165_1
The Wall Street Journal
March 25, 2006
High wedges look more stable than stilettos, but looks can deceive
By CHERYL LU–LIEN TAN
March 25, 2006; Page P4
This spring, Neiman Marcus is calling the high wedge and the chunky
platform "two of the most important shoes of the season." Designers from
Christian Louboutin to Aldo are filling their collections with them. And
for many women tired of teetering on spindly stilettos, the shift to a
chunkier style is a welcome relief.
But there's a hitch: Contrary to popular belief, the shoes can be less
stable than spike heels –– and can cause more injuries. Podiatrists and
orthopedic surgeons say the thick, platform–style base of a high wedge
doesn't allow the foot to move as naturally as in a shoe with a
conventional heel. The result is that more weight is borne by the ball of
the foot. Some high wedges also have curved soles, which can make it easy
to lose your balance.
"You're already on a pretty high pedestal...walking on your tiptoes and
then you put a rocker underneath it –– I don't think that's a very stable
construct," says Dr. Judith Baumhauer, chief of foot and ankle surgery at
the University of Rochester.
Wearing high wedges –– some measure as much as 5 inches at the heel –– can
cause joint inflammation under the big toe, a condition known as
sesamoiditis, and damage to the fat under the ball of the foot, doctors
say. Stilettos can cause these ailments, too. But some doctors say high
wedges are more likely to trigger them because the clunky heels interfere
with the foot's natural movement. While conventional heels absorb some of
the weight of walking, says Dr. Les Glubo, a New York podiatrist, "with
these wedges, the heel is so high ... it's throwing all the stress of the
weight to the front of the foot." Knee, back or ankle strain is also
possible because wedges often weigh more than traditional heels, says Dr.
Harold Glickman, president of the American Podiatric Medical Association.
The high wedge is the latest attempt by shoe companies to capitalize on
the popularity of heels. Last year, sales of heels over 3 inches rose 11%,
and sales of heels measuring 1.5 inches to 3 inches jumped 20%, while
sales of flats fell 5.1%, according to NPD Group, a Port Washington, N.Y.,
market researcher.
Shoes have been a big bright spot for the fashion industry, with sales of
footwear growing faster than those of apparel. Last year, sales of dressy
and casual women's shoes rose 32%, NPD says. The industry has done
platforms and wedges before, but many of the current styles use synthetic
materials to make the base lighter than in the past and some incorporate
shock–absorbing materials.
Makers say the new high wedges appeal to women who want to add 4 or 5
inches to their height but feel like they are wearing 2– to 4–inch heels
(because the ball of the foot sits on a 1– or 2–inch platform). And they
suggest pairing the clunky shoes with this season's romantic dresses or
skinny pants.
But podiatrists worry that high wedges will contribute to an increase in
shoe–related injuries, which they say anecdotal evidence suggests are now
at record levels. Dr. Glickman, who practices in Washington, D.C.,
estimates that he sees 40% more patients with such injuries than five
years ago. Dr. Glubo in Manhattan says the number of patients he sees with
shoe–related injuries has roughly doubled in the same period.
The popularity of heels is partly to blame. Doctors say shoes with more
than a 2–inch heel put too much stress on the ball of the foot and the
second toe. For walking, they suggest athletic shoes.
Some in the fashion industry shrug off these concerns. At Neiman Marcus,
fashion director Ken Downing says: "The thing to remember with fashion is,
it's going to last for six months and then there's going to be something
else that your fashionista heart is going to crave. So, just enjoy it."
Designer Donald J. Pliner nevertheless says he tries to alleviate strain a
big wedge could cause by adding extra padding under the ball of the foot;
he also uses light–weight materials such as polyurethane foam. At Aldo,
where 25% of spring styles are wedges, including a 5–incher, spokeswoman
Lori Sternthal says the company uses sturdy, thick straps on higher,
heavier shoes to keep them firmly in place.
Yadira Lopez, a Brooklyn, N.Y., insurance agent, says she generally feels
more comfortable in wedges than stilettos but adds that the two pairs she
owns make her feel "a little unbalanced sometimes." Still, she's
considering buying a super–high pair because she likes shoes that add
height to her 5–foot–1–inch frame.
HOW TO SAVE YOUR FEET
See some advice from doctors on what to look for in a high wedge, and
examples of the spring's hottest shoes.
http://online.wsj.com/article_print/SB114323955765907867.html#WEDGECHRT
Write to Cheryl Lu–Lien Tan at cheryl....@wsj.com1