Sarah wrote:
1 Why do I need a moisturizer?
The question is not why, but when. Moisturizers provide
a therapeutic effect when the skin is dry, flaky, itchy, or
irritated, when the skin's water content drops to below
1020%%, and when the skin's barrier effect is damaged. Harsh
surfactants, wind, cold weather, conditions of low humidity,
age, and use of irritants can all impair the skin's barrier
and lead to loss of water, waterbinding substances, and lipids
in the skin.
2 Can moisturizers be bad for your skin in any way?
Yes, some emulsifiers can impair the barrier effect and can
allow for irritants to more easily penetrate the skin.
3 When should I use a moisturizer?
When your skin feels tight, dry, chapped, flaky, etc.
4 What is the best kind of moisturizer for oily skin?
It depends on what you mean by best. If you mean most effective,
the most effective moisturizer in most studies is plain petrolatum.
But, petrolatum can be comedogenic for some skins. Some acneprones
do better with a lower lipid content, but in general, the lower the
lipid content, the less the therapeutic effect.
5 Is expensive moisturizer better than cheap moisturizer?
Usually no.
6 Why do you need to clean your face from makeup but not
moisturizer?
It's probably best to clean both, although some moisturizers
contain skinidentical lipids that benefit the stratum corneum,
and do not need to be washed off.
7 I use cocoa butter and it seems to work fine. I also
sometimes use Vaseline and it will take care of dry skin within
an hour. Can I use those instead of a moisturizer?
Cocoa butter performs poorly when compared to an inert lipid
mix like petrolatum.
There is a picture here:
http://www.scfonline.com/english/31_e/Images31_e/b_gabard31_fig4_big_e.gif
Petrolatum is usually the best choice, but natural oils that
are dominant in unoxidized linoleic acid are also good because
linoleic acid is the primary fatty acid in the stratum corneum
and is a component of or precursor to some skin lipids, including
ceramides.
But, applying an incomplete mix of skin lipids can actually impede
the barrier repair process, according to some sources. The skin
lipids include ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids. Some
of the newer "barrier repair" creams include all of these, but they
have not yet been shown to be superior to plain petrolatum in most
studies.
evidencebased skincare forum:
http://biochemistryofbeauty.com/phpBB/index.php