Home / alt.fashion / Saturday, November 20, 2004

[ARTICLE] You Paid How Much for That Haircut?

Poetic Badgers <poeticbadg...@spammenot>
ttp://www.nytimes.com/2004/11/21/fashion/21HAIR.html
November 21, 2004
You Paid How Much for That Haircut?
By ALEX KUCZYNSKI
N a recent weekday afternoon, Orlando Pita, hairdresser to celebrities
like Jennifer Connelly, Naomi Campbell and Kirsten Dunst, received a
client in his new salon, Orlo, on the third floor of a nondescript walkup
on Gansevoort Street.
Mr. Pita, 42, stood mesmerized behind the woman's brunet head, puzzling
in a way that suggested he was examining a compelling piece of abstract
art. He worked in monastic silence, his scissors venturing only the most
tentative stabs. With each move, he stepped back, occasionally blowing
the hair with a drier, watching the way it waved under the heat, his brow
pressed in concentration.
The entire process lasted about 80 minutes. And each minute cost about
$10: Mr. Pita charges $800 for a haircut.
If that seems like an extraordinary sum to charge, consider that New York
has always been the hub of the outrageously expensive coiffure. But
what's different now is that there seems to be a race for the
stratosphere, as if a haircut were the new It luxury item, as fetishized
as a Kelly bag or a pair of Jimmy Choos.
As big–ticket hairdressers sprout all over Manhattan — with an especially
dense concentration in the district formerly known for meatpacking —
stylists, salon owners and customers are loudly debating exactly how much
is too much.
Mr. Pita defended his $800 price tag, a new high for the city, and a fee
that is the equivalent of twice the annual income of the average citizen
of Bangladesh.
"Your hair is one of the first things people notice about you," he said.
"You can spend a lot on clothes, but you wear your hair every day. The
luxury market is not about needs, or `Is it worth it?' It's about `What
can I spend?' "
Michael Gordon, the founder and president of Bumble and Bumble, which
opened a salon on West 13th Street in May that is a curling iron's throw
from Orlo, said he didn't buy that. At 40,000 square feet, with the most
expensive haircut going for $250 but most much less, the Bumble and
Bumble salon is pure populism next to Orlo's exclusivity.
"On the one hand, there is probably nothing you're going to buy that
you're going to wear every day for six weeks," Mr. Gordon said. "On the
other, it concerns me that some of the stuff is ego driven, bravado, a
competition to see who can be more expensive. It's the hair version of
who can get an appointment with Pat Wexler." (He was referring to Dr.
Patricia Wexler, a New York dermatologist.)
For years New York stylists have been commanding prices many times higher
than those in, say, Nebraska. Frédéric Fekkai raised eyebrows when he
first started charging $300 a cut in the late 1990's. (Mr. Fekkai has
been cutting hair less frequently in recent years. He entered into a
joint venture with Chanel in 1996 and is now chief executive of Frédéric
Fekkai & Company, which generated approximately $36 million in 2003,
according to a report earlier this year in Women's Wear Daily. When he
does cut hair, he charges $400 but is planning to raise prices next year,
he wrote in an e–mail message.)
Robbin McClain, the editor in chief of American Salon, a trade magazine,
said her antennae first perked up several years ago upon hearing that
John Sahag, the onetime tonsorial minister to clients like Jennifer
Lopez, was charging $400 for a cut.
"At that time that seemed really outrageous," Ms. McClain said.
In the last year several high–profile hairdressers have opened salons
with big ambitions or big price tags. Leading the fray was Sally
Hershberger, whose eponymous salon opened on West 14th Street last fall.
Ms. Hershberger, who became famous for the shaggily demure style worn by
Meg Ryan, charges $600.
According to a report by American Salon, the average women's haircut in
the United States costs about $21 for a cut in a salon with fewer than 6
chairs, up to $44 for a salon with more than 13 chairs. So what makes a
haircut that costs 14 to 18 times the average high–priced salon haircut
in the rest of the country worth it in New York?
"Look, even $250 is expensive," Ms. Hershberger said over a high–protein
breakfast at Pastis on Thursday, her hair scrunched in a style college
students typically refer to as "bed head." "But you have to remember,
hair is the first thing people notice. When you get a facelift, people
say, `Hey, you look great, did you change your hair?' "
At Orlo, Mr. Pita said, he had at first had misgivings about charging
such a high price. "I toyed with it at first," he said, a spectral black–
and–white portrait of Kate Moss in platinum–blond hair staring down from
the freshly painted white wall behind him. "Eight hundred dollars is a
lot of money, but so is five, six, seven hundred dollars." But he said
his price was a practical one, in line with the fees he charges for his
work in the fashion industry doing runway shows and magazine shoots for
photographers like Steven Meisel and companies like Gucci.
His explanation didn't wash with Ms. McClain of American Salon. "To me
that honestly doesn't make that much sense," she said. A stylist on a
shoot or a fashion show is paid by a corporate source, typically willing
to spend the kind of money necessary to achieve perfection in an image
that might reach millions of people.
"When you're on a shoot, someone else is paying for it, but when someone
is in the salon, they're paying for it themselves," Ms. McClain said. "I
don't get it."
Mr. Pita stood by his number.
"I decided not to offend my friends in the fashion industry," he said.
Kenneth Battelle, who runs the Kenneth salon in the Waldorf–Astoria and
whose clients have included Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Gloria
Vanderbilt, Brooke Astor, Lauren Bacall and Marilyn Monroe, said that
charging $800 for a haircut was "an ego trip."
"And anyone who pays that much money to go to the meatpacking district to
have their hair done is a meathead," he added. (Mr. Battelle charges
$155, and does not accept tips.)
Certainly, having one's hair cut by one of the high–priced brigade means
careful scheduling, and earns the kind of bragging rights New Yorkers
love, like securing a table at Per Se or a private viewing of the
Modern's galleries before the official reopening. In the case of Serge
Normant, the new stylist at John Frieda on Madison Avenue, he is required
by the terms of his contract to be in the salon just four days a month.
His price: $500. (He said he tried to avoid tips.)
Mr. Normant said that because he, like Mr. Pita, has spent the bulk of
his career working on runway shows and shoots and is not yet well known
to the civilian salon–going public, anything higher than $500 would be
"pretentious."
"But I'm not saying that next year I won't
Ruddell <ruddell'Elle–Kabo...@canada.com>
In <Xns95A76656B4687poeticbadg...@129.250.170.81> Poetic Badgers wrote:
http://www.nytimes.com/2004/11/21/fashion/21HAIR.html
Very interesting article...thanks! Looks like David's in the right
profession ;–)
––
Cheers
Dennis
Remove 'Elle–Kabong' to reply
Charlie Perrin <c.l.per...@SPAMBOTS_DIEatt.net>
On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 21:25:07 –0000, Ruddell wrote:
In another message, Poetic Badgers had an article about hair:
http://www.nytimes.com/2004/11/21/fashion/21HAIR.html
Very interesting article...thanks! Looks like David's in the right
profession ;–)
David undoubtedly makes a lot closer to the average.
Charlie Perrin <c.l.per...@SPAMBOTS_DIEatt.net>
On 20 Nov 2004 16:03:20 GMT, Poetic Badgers wrote:
For years New York stylists have been commanding prices many times higher
than those in, say, Nebraska. Frédéric Fekkai raised eyebrows when he
first started charging $300 a cut in the late 1990's.
In the last year several high–profile hairdressers have opened salons
with big ambitions or big price tags. Leading the fray was Sally
Hershberger, whose eponymous salon opened on West 14th Street last fall.
Ms. Hershberger, who became famous for the shaggily demure style worn by
Meg Ryan, charges $600.
According to a report by American Salon, the average women's haircut in
the United States costs about $21 for a cut in a salon with fewer than 6
chairs, up to $44 for a salon with more than 13 chairs. So what makes a
haircut that costs 14 to 18 times the average high–priced salon haircut
in the rest of the country worth it in New York?
Kenneth Battelle, who runs the Kenneth salon in the Waldorf–Astoria and
whose clients have included Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Gloria
Vanderbilt, Brooke Astor, Lauren Bacall and Marilyn Monroe, said that
charging $800 for a haircut was "an ego trip."
"And anyone who pays that much money to go to the meatpacking district to
have their hair done is a meathead," he added. (Mr. Battelle charges
$155, and does not accept tips.)
Mr. Barrett charges $400 for a haircut, a price he calls "bargain
basement."
If Mr. Barrett's $400 is a "bargain basement," where's Kenneth's $155
(no tips accepted)?
OTOH, it might be worth $155 to have your hair cut by somebody who did
the hair of Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Gloria Vanderbilt, Brooke
Astor, Lauren Bacall and Marilyn Monroe. Paying $155 is probably not
that unreasonable figuring he's got a lot more overhead in the Big
Apple than your typical strip mall hair cutter.
Now I can visualize on the thougt process going on on the other end of
the Internet: "If that squeezepenny geek Charlie thinks a $155 haircut
is 'probably not that unreasonable,' I had better spend $800 on mine!"
<grin/duck>
"shinypenny" <shinypenny0...@yahoo.com>
Ruddell wrote:
In <Xns95A76656B4687poeticbadg...@129.250.170.81> Poetic Badgers
wrote:
http://www.nytimes.com/2004/11/21/fashion/21HAIR.html
Very interesting article...thanks! Looks like David's in the right
profession ;–)
Yes, thanks from me, too. I also found the article interesting. While I
can't ever imagine myself personally paying that much for a haircut
(for one thing, I just don't have enough hair on my head to justify
it!!!), I wouldn't fault someone else for doing so. IMO, cutting hair
really is an art, and if a hairdresser is a top–notch artist, then
he/she should get compensated accordingly for the craft.
I can count on one hand the number of excellent hair cuts I've had over
the years. I've been to ritzy salons, and once had a great hair cut
from a salon owner, but the rest of the great cuts were from
run–of–the–mill places that didn't charge all that much, so you can
never tell just by the price or the type of salon. The secret is in the
skill of the hairdresser.
These were the kind of hair cuts that looked fabulous the next day,
when I styled it myself (I'm not all that handy with a blowdryer and
brush), as well as on days when I did nothing but let it air dry, and
for weeks afterwards, growing out gracefully.
In all these cases, the hairdresser took the time to really think
through what he/she wanted to do before he/she started. Consulted with
me about my lifestyle. Took into account my bone structure and my good
and less–than–good features, as well as the texture and thickness of my
hair. Then proceeded to cut very slowly, with a general vision in mind
that was slowly refined, snip by snip. I have very fine hair and most
times it can be cut in 10 minutes. The best cuts I've had took much
longer.
Most of these cuts were much shorter than I wear my hair today – chin
length. I recall one of the hairdressers used a razoring technique to
frame the hair around my face. Have never found another hairdresser
who was willing to try this.
I don't know why, but whenever I go back for the second time, the magic
always seems to be gone, and the same hairdresser can never seem to
recreate it again. Why is that? Frustrating!
They are opening up a Vidal Sasson salon nearby me soon. I am
contemplating giving this salon a try, as I'm craving a style that's
more of a true "style" than how I've been wearing my hair for the last
several years (basic blunt cut with a few layers in back for height).
Something shorter, chin length.... anyone else have the Sasson
experience? If so, what did you think?
jen
"ahmward" <nospam.ahmw...@yahoo.com>


"shinypenny" <shinypenny0...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1100988557.413007.241...@c13g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Ruddell wrote:
wrote:
http://www.nytimes.com/2004/11/21/fashion/21HAIR.html
Yes, thanks from me, too. I also found the article interesting. While
I
can't ever imagine myself personally paying that much for a haircut
(for one thing, I just don't have enough hair on my head to justify
it!!!), I wouldn't fault someone else for doing so. IMO, cutting hair
really is an art, and if a hairdresser is a top–notch artist, then
he/she should get compensated accordingly for the craft.
I can count on one hand the number of excellent hair cuts I've had
over
the years. I've been to ritzy salons, and once had a great hair cut
from a salon owner, but the rest of the great cuts were from
run–of–the–mill places that didn't charge all that much, so you can
never tell just by the price or the type of salon. The secret is in
the
skill of the hairdresser.
These were the kind of hair cuts that looked fabulous the next day,
when I styled it myself (I'm not all that handy with a blowdryer and
brush), as well as on days when I did nothing but let it air dry, and
for weeks afterwards, growing out gracefully.
In all these cases, the hairdresser took the time to really think
through what he/she wanted to do before he/she started. Consulted with
me about my lifestyle. Took into account my bone structure and my good
and less–than–good features, as well as the texture and thickness of
my
hair. Then proceeded to cut very slowly, with a general vision in mind
that was slowly refined, snip by snip. I have very fine hair and most
times it can be cut in 10 minutes. The best cuts I've had took much
longer.
Most of these cuts were much shorter than I wear my hair today – chin
length. I recall one of the hairdressers used a razoring technique to
frame the hair around my face. Have never found another hairdresser
who was willing to try this.
I don't know why, but whenever I go back for the second time, the
magic
always seems to be gone, and the same hairdresser can never seem to
recreate it again. Why is that? Frustrating!
They are opening up a Vidal Sasson salon nearby me soon. I am
contemplating giving this salon a try, as I'm craving a style that's
more of a true "style" than how I've been wearing my hair for the last
several years (basic blunt cut with a few layers in back for height).
Something shorter, chin length.... anyone else have the Sasson
experience? If so, what did you think?
jen
I have been going to my stylist for at least ten years and have rarely
had a bad cut. The magic is always there because he continues his
education annually and works to perfect his craft. He attends special
workshops, visits salons in the major cities and continues to perfect
his techniques. There used to be a pricier stylist at the salon and I
could never understand why his cuts were more than those by my stylist
and his equally talented cousin. I think a lot had to do with the fact
that he was a one name person and there was simply a sort of status to
go to him. He split his time between central CA, SF and Toronto so he
was also "interntional." Frankly some of his cuts looked hideous to me.
When we started I had long permed hair and now it is short and straight
so I've gone through a lot of changes too.
Audrey
Richard Hunter <returntosen...@ddressunknown.com>
On 20 Nov 2004 16:03:20 GMT, Poetic Badgers
<poeticbadg...@spammenot> coughed and sputtered, and managed to
choke out these words:
http://www.nytimes.com/2004/11/21/fashion/21HAIR.html
<snip>
The entire process lasted about 80 minutes. And each minute cost about
$10: Mr. Pita charges $800 for a haircut.
that's ridiculous.
<snip>
Michael Gordon, the founder and president of Bumble and Bumble, which
opened a salon on West 13th Street in May that is a curling iron's throw
from Orlo, said he didn't buy that.
'curling iron's throw'! LOL!
david
––
http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/derbarbier/
(ebay sales)
http://shops.half.com/derbarbier
ten tod labolgcbs ta reibrabred
Poetic Badgers <poeticbadg...@spammenot>
Ruddell <ruddell'Elle–Kabo...@canada.com> wrote on 20 Nov 2004:
In <Xns95A76656B4687poeticbadg...@129.250.170.81> Poetic Badgers
wrote:
Very interesting article...thanks! Looks like David's in the right
profession ;–)
You're welcome. Thought it topical and that it might engender some
discussion...
––
Poetic Badgers
"The most courageous act is still to think for yourself. Aloud."
–Coco Chanel
Richard Hunter <returntosen...@ddressunknown.com>
On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 22:01:09 GMT, Charlie Perrin
<c.l.per...@SPAMBOTS_DIEatt.net> coughed and sputtered, and
managed to choke out these words:
On 20 Nov 2004 16:03:20 GMT, Poetic Badgers wrote:
If Mr. Barrett's $400 is a "bargain basement," where's Kenneth's $155
(no tips accepted)?
sewer system?
david
––
http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/derbarbier/
(ebay sales)
http://shops.half.com/derbarbier
ten tod labolgcbs ta reibrabred
Richard Hunter <returntosen...@ddressunknown.com>
On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 22:04:24 GMT, Charlie Perrin
<c.l.per...@SPAMBOTS_DIEatt.net> coughed and sputtered, and
managed to choke out these words:
On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 21:25:07 –0000, Ruddell wrote:
http://www.nytimes.com/2004/11/21/fashion/21HAIR.html
David undoubtedly makes a lot closer to the average.
it's true. the company i work for charges between $10.95 and
$12.95 for a men's cut – depending on location. my location
charges $12.95. i charge extra ($2 or $3 more) for a razor cut –
it's a designer cut. a woman's cut starts at $14.95 – i charge
extra if i have to put in layers, or if the hair's really long
(say, below the bra strap), or if it's a razor cut. i think the
most i've ever charged for a woman's cut was $19.95 – and that
was without a shampoo or conditioner or blowdry. we do have
combo pricing – $25.95 for a woman's shampoo/cut/blowdry. $5
extra for a conditioner at the bowl, $15 for a deep conditioner.
and if the hair's long, i charge maybe $5 more. colour and
highlights start at $37.95 and $55, respectively. i work
strictly on commission, and i *do* accept tips.
if i do a haircut for a friend, at their house, i charge $15 –
doesn't matter if it's a man, woman, or child. it's $15. my
personal colour prices are only slightly lower than the starting
range of what i charge in the shop. i did a cut and colour for a
friend the other day – hair just above the shoulders – and i
charged her $55.
i can only imagine what Mr. Pita's charging for colour if he's
already charging $800 for a cut!
david
––
http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/derbarbier/
(ebay sales)
http://shops.half.com/derbarbier
ten tod labolgcbs ta reibrabred